High Edge
High Over Buxton is the bouldering guide to Buxton, Derbyshire. The town is ringed by small rocks, which although only of local interest, provide plenty of sport for boulderers seeking solitude, or a change of pace from the more famous rocks hereabouts. Many of the boulders are situated in very picturesque places and are especially pleasant for relaxed evening trips. The guide describes boulder problems climbed since 1969, mainly in the lower grades, but with some more demanding problems up to V8. You can buy the guide from Jo Royal Outdoor in town.
Intensify V7. The Bay
(You have to click at the top left to get the video to play)
High Over Buxton
New problems
These problems have been reported since the guide was originally published in 2003. Please send in any further problems.
Camera Confused (v5). Does not use the left hand arete at all or the left foot ramp. It starts sitting, on 2 crimps on the flake, pushes up to pinch the undercut on the large break. After some fancy footwork, slaps up again on the right arete. Move left foot by left hand and top out; topping out is slopey and gritty. Stand up version of this is (v4).
Camera Amused (v4). Same start as "Camera Confused" but uses a small pocket on the left arete. The left footramp is still out. Stand up version is (v3).
Directors Camera (v6). Starts as for "Directors Cut" (10), and after you have moved down to the bottom jugs, go left and finish up "Camera Confused".
First ascents Pete Bridgwood: 19th April 2009.
Camera Amused. Photo courtesy of Pete Bridgwood
Wolf Edge; Project Buttress (renamed Quantum Buttress). Problems climbed by David Kettle and friend Tom (Quantum Phenomenon Direct) 9th July 2007.
Wolf Edge, Wolf Block. High Over Buxton Page 80.
Swiss Cheesed/Quantum Phemonenon (V3). The arete on friable crimps (above the wall); traverse right onto the front face, then rock up to the top.
Direct finish. V3.
Quantum Leap. (V7/8 - 7a+). The arete, climbed on its lefthand side.
Project Quantum. (7a+). The same arete on its right. Sitting or standing start
The side wall/arete on RHS. v7/8.
Further along the edge: Problem no 40- (above the post) on front face (v4) and rocking around to the right (v2).
Solomon’s Temple. Quarries End
Start as for problem 10, and move slightly rightwards to finish. Dan Warren. August 2009.
The project jump on to the Snout mentioned in the guide has now been done. Pasi’s Leap. 2005.
Solomon’s Temple. Eliminates Wall Area
High Edge
Dyno. From the sidepull on Problem 4, dyno to the top. V4. Hannes Friborg. June 2005.
V4. From the same low start as for Hangover (Problem 10) but pull out right just using the natural pocket on the lip, then straight up. Simon Hunter. Jan 2010.
A couple of new problems have been done on Pinches Wall (Campsite Wall). Details to follow if Dan can remember what they are.
Some new small areas have been discovered. Details to follow